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PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUI |
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Just short of 100km northeast of San José, PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUÍ
(known locally as Puerto Viejo, not to be confused with Puerto Viejo de
Talamanca on the Atlantic coast) is an important hub for banana
plantation workers and those who live in the isolated settlements
between here and the Atlantic coast. Its only interest to independent
travellers is as a jumping-off point from which to visit the nearby
jungle lodges. Facilities are few, and inadequate even to cope with the
demands of migrant workers, though there are plenty of licorías (liquor
stores).
Numerous buses leave San José for Puerto Viejo; the fast service , via
the Guápiles Highway and Las Horquetas, currently departs at 7am, 9am,
10am, 1pm, 3pm and 4pm, completing the 97-kilometre trip in just ninety
minutes. Buses from San José to Puerto Viejo via Heredia (ask the driver
if you're unsure which bus you're on - there's nothing on the front
indicating which route it takes) take more like three hours and leave at
6.30am, noon and 3pm, returning from Puerto Viejo at 8am and 4pm -
although the 4pm bus sometimes only goes as far as La Virgen, some 12km
west of Puerto Viejo.
Though most people choose to stay in one of the lodges in the
countryside outside the town, if you're stuck, Mi Lindo Sarapiquí (tel
766-6074; US$5-10), on the main street, is the best-known spot in town,
with a good restaurant that doubles as a bar at night - ask behind the
counter in the restaurant for rooms, as there's no reception. Rooms are
clean, fairly spacious and have private bath. Also on the main street is
El Bambú (tel 766-6005, fax 766-6132, www.elbambu.com ; US$25-40), the
plushest accommodation in town, with nicely decorated rooms, all with
fans, colour TV and hot water, pretty potted tropical plants and a
restaurant, bar and full tour service.
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