|
| |
|
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA |
| |
The 12km of coast between the languorous hamlet of PUERTO VIEJO DE
TALAMANCA , 18km southeast of Cahuita, and Manzanillo village is one of
the most beautiful stretches in the country. Though not spectacular for
swimming, the beaches - Playa Chiquita, Punta Uva and Manzanillo - are
the most picturesque on the entire coast; there's also plenty of
accommodation, and it's livelier than Cahuita.
It's surfing that really pulls the crowds; the stretch south of
Stanford's restaurant at the southern end of the village offers some of
the most challenging waves in the country, and certainly the best on the
Atlantic coast. Puerto Viejo's famous " La Salsa Brava " crashes ashore
between December and March and from June to July. September and October,
when La Salsa Brava goes away to wherever big waves go, are the quietest
months of the year.
The village itself lies between the thick forested hills of the
Talamanca mountains and the sea, where locals bathe and kids frolic with
surfboards in the waves. It's a dusty little place in daylight hours but
reasonably well cared for, with bright hand-painted signs pointing the
way to cabinas , bars and restaurants. The main drag through the centre,
potholed and rough, is criss-crossed by a few dirt streets and an
offshoot road that follows the shore. As in Cahuita, many Europeans have
been drawn to Puerto Viejo and have set up their own businesses; also
like Cahuita, most locals are of Afro-Caribbean descent. In recent years,
Puerto Viejo's backpacker and surf-party culture has created a small
drugs scene , though this is fairly low-key and shouldn't adversely
affect your stay. Nevertheless, it's best to make sure your room is well
secured at night, and to avoid wandering through the quiet fringes of
the village alone in the small hours.
|
| |
|
